Rob Sietsema has been the food critic for the village voice since 1993. He has a lot to say in regard to who is a legitimate food critic and how the art should be approached.
Mr. Sietsema cuts lose on the infamous "restaurant girl" who swept New York City with her unorthodox, flamboyant style of restaurant reviewing. He cites anonymity and return trips to gather a fair sample as necessary in his article "Everyone Eats ... But that doesn't make you a restaurant critic" for the January/February issue of the Columbia Journalism Review. The articles sets up a forum for some relevant ethical questions that pertain to those of us interested in food criticism, and reviewing in general: How important is it to conceal identity as a reviewer? Does anonymity mean forfeiting the opportunity to speak with chefs (directors, actors) about their vision? Does researching need to be an individual experience or can we engage with the people who created what we are reviewing? Unfortunately the article is not available to non-subscribers in the online version of the magazine, but it is available in the Kalamazoo College Library.
Here are some links:
Counter Culture (Mr. Sietsema's column in the Village Voice)
Restaurant Girl (Danyelle Freeman is Restaurant Girl)
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